Electrical Safety Requirement

Electrical Safety Requirements for Spa Installations: The installation of all spas must be in accordance with national and local wiring rules. Always have a licensed Electrician perform the electrical installation. Each Bullfrog Spa is manufactured and tested to a standard that provides maximum protection against electrical shock. Improper wiring may prevent the spa from operating safely which could result in electrical shock, injury, or death. Improper wiring could also lead to a malfunction of the spa’s equipment and risk of fire. When considering a location for your spa, consult with a licensed Electrician pertaining to the following:

Overhead Power Lines: Based upon the national and local wiring rules that apply to your area, you will need to install your spa at the required minimum horizontal and vertical distances from all power lines.
Service Disconnect: Based upon your area, a disconnect device must be incorporated into the fixed wiring in accordance with national and local wiring rules. If the national and local wiring rules permit, a GFCI Sub-Panel may be used to substitute the service disconnect, providing that it is located within the same parameters.
Electrical Outlets, Switches and Devices: Based upon the national and local wiring rules that apply to your area, you must install your spa at the required minimum distance from all electrical outlets, switches, and devices.
Bonding: Based upon the national and local wiring rules that apply to your area, the Control System Box located inside the equipment compartment of your spa must be bonded to all metal equipment, handrails, fixtures, enclosures, pipe, or conduit that are located within the maximum specified distances. The bonding is to be connected to the ground lug connector on the exterior surface of the Control System Box and all metal items previously described.
Equipment Compartment Access: Make sure the spa is positioned so access to the equipment compartment will not be blocked.

All other national and local rules that may be applicable.

How to Calculate Your Home's Electrical Usage:

After mapping out your home's wiring circuits, the next step is to determine your present usage, or electrical load. This would be a time-consuming task if you had to go around the house and add up all the wattages of the lights and appliances; however, the National Electrical Code has established certain values that represent typical electrical usage.

Three watts per square foot of existing living space and space for future use is used to figure electrical load for general-purpose circuits (general lighting and receptacles). A nominal value of 1,500 watts is used for each 20-amp small-appliance circuit (circuits that power receptacles in the kitchen, dining room, family room, breakfast room, and pantry) and for a laundry circuit.

By applying these values to your own home and using the actual nameplate values affixed to major appliances, you can use one of several formulas to calculate your electrical load.
100 amps or more: One formula for homes with 120/240-volt service and a rating of 100 amps or more is presented as a worksheet below.

To understand how the formula works, consider the example of a house with 1,800 square feet (based on outside dimensions) of finished living space and space adaptable for future use. The house has the usual two small-appliance circuits (3,000 watts), a laundry circuit (1,500 watts), a hot water heater (5,500 watts), a clothes dryer (5,600 watts), a dishwasher (1,500 watts), a garbage disposal (600 watts), a range (15,000 watts), and a central air conditioner (5,000 watts).

The first step is to multiply 1,800 square feet by 3 watts per square foot. The total is 5,400 watts for lighting and general-purpose circuits. Add 3,000 watts for the two small-appliance circuits and 1,500 watts for the laundry circuit for a total of 9,900 watts. Next, add the values of all the major appliances, except the air conditioner, for a total of 38,100 watts.

The next step is to figure 40 percent of the amount over 10,000 watts (0.40 x 28,100 = 11,240 watts). Adding the 10,000 watts to the 11,240 watts gives a subtotal of 21,240 watts. Then add the 5,000 watts of the air conditioner for a grand total of 26,240 watts. This is your estimated load in watts.

To figure the current needed to carry that load, divide 26,240 watts by 240 volts. The total comes to 109.33 amps; therefore, of the standard service ratings (60, 100, 125, 150, and 200), the rating for the sample house should be 125 amps or higher.

Now you can try it yourself: Enter the values appropriate to your home on the worksheet, then compare the total load in amps with your present service rating. If the two values are close together, your present service cannot handle the addition of many new loads.

Less than 100 amps: If your service rating is less than 100 amps, you can't use the formula given on the worksheet to calculate your load. You can, however, use a different formula that incorporates the same NEC values for typical electrical usage. Therefore, the general-purpose circuits, small-appliance circuits, and laundry circuits are computed exactly as they are in the first three entries of the table.

Once you've figured the general-purpose circuit load (3 watts x number of square feet of living area), add 1,500 watts for each 20-amp small-appliance circuit and laundry circuit. Using this total, add 100 percent of the first 3,000 watts and 35 percent of the balance over 3,000 watts [3,000 + 0.35 (total - 3,000)].

Add to this value the nameplate ratings of all major appliances (space heater, garbage disposal, dishwasher, etc.). This gives you your estimated load in watts. You can find the current by dividing the total wattage by your voltage--120 volts for two-wire service or 240 volts for three-wire service.